Most probably, you will be overwhelmed by mixed feelings when coming out of Casa in central Havana for the first time: the combo of sounds and scents, random people wandering around, headless chicken right in the middle of the street, lots of homeless dogs and taxi drivers, that insist you definitely need their services, a little bit of local fashionistas and overall poverty.
As we make our way towards the old part of the city, - Havana Vieja, - we go via Malekon, another favourite place for both tourists and locals to gather at all times. You will always find people and all kinds of pleasures there, especially close to the evening.
As you will move forward, you will constantly be approached and offered either:
a) cigars... and if you did not react, then
b) weed
c) taxi
d) restaurant
e) taking pictures with one of the "signature" cuban characters etc.
Also, be prepared to hear a lot of "Happy holidays! Where are you from?", that means beginning of a conversation, the main purpose of which is to get money from you, these people don't need anything else, - do not flatter yourself! :)
Be aware at all times, as you are in Havana, baby! Always count the change, e.g. we have been tricked even in one of the main "posh" and very decadent-looking pharmacies (Johnson Drug Store)! Look after your belongings (the close-to -body (under the t-shirt) purse is the best option, dress simple and please, - do not take your fine jewellery with you.
The Casa we have stayed in
For out 5 night stay in Havana we have chosen
B&B Central Havana Casa.
Our place was located in 20-25 min walking distance from the Old city. Possibly, I would advise to stay somewhere a little bit closer to Havana Vieja, as it could save you time and energy.
First day and early morning, view from our place
And this is how our room looked like.
From the very first moment we walked in, I have realised how much we all should appreciate all simple things that we have and take for granted, - e.g. electric kettle, nice, comfortable bathroom and good quality sheets etc.
Places to visit in Havana
Unfortunately several places we wanted to visit were closed, e.g. El Capitolio (National Capitol building in Havana) and Gran Teatro de La Havana (Great Theatre of Havana) - probably one of the most beautiful buildings in Havana I have seen.
On our first day we have also visited Museo de la Revolution (Museum of the Revolution) , however (with all my respect to the topic, though!) I must say this is one of the most boring museums I have ever been to ... Even though my partner is quite into the history, he also was fairly disappointed, as there weren't many exhibits, but mostly just general information about Cuban revolution and its chronology.
Of course, I have to admit, we might be a little spoilt after seeing all the variety and interactive approach, that most London museums have to offer.
Useful (hopefully useful! :) tips:
1. Climate the level of humidity in Havana is fairly high -
The relative humidity typically ranges from 50% (mildly humid) to 97% (very humid) over the course of the year, - according to
weatherspark.com .
When we walked out of Havana airport, even though it was late evening, I could literally feel how high the humidity is! My skin was all wet very soon and my cough got much worse immediately (yes, unfortunately I arrived to Havana while being sick...) .
In general, my advice is to get a REALLY comfortable shoes with you (as even my favourite pair of Crocs, which never seem to cause me any problems) did not feel as good after a day of walking in Havana, so be careful!
Also, try to opt for natural breathable fabrics, such as good quality cotton, anything synthetic will just feel very bad.
2. Where to change money
There are two currency types in Cuba:
1) Cuban Convertible Peso, CUC - you will exchange your foreign currency for CUC and use this everywhere for payments. The way I got explained: consider CUC is money for tourists.
2) Cuban Peso, CUP - used mainly by locals rather than tourists, but is fully legal, so do not worry if you will be given change somewhere in CUP.
You can exchange your money once arrived, at the Havana Airport.
However the exchange rates are not the best there, so try to plan your budget and change just whatever you will need for your first expenses (cab transfer from the Airport, dinner etc.).
Also, be prepared to wait in a queue for up to 40 min. When one of the British tourists tried to complain ( as he normally would have done in England) , one of the guards just smiled at him.
Here, no one is in a rush! ))
The best and I assume the safest place to exchange money in Havana is Bank. The rates are good, and, - thanks, God!, - there is an aircon there! :))
Be aware of the working hours, most of them are officially closing at 5pm, however in reality, no one will serve you already at 4:50...
3. Where to ask for help/directions
One of the places where assistance was provided to us twice and people were helpful and also could speak English fairly well was this place below.
E.g. they helped to translate in Spanish my symptoms, so we could get appropriate medicine. Also, one of the ladies there saved our time and money (generally speaking) as she advised, that Jardin Botanico Nacional is too far (it is outside the city) and to get there by taxi will cost 50-60 CUC, plus the tickets. "Forget about the buses! That's way too far and complicated!", - that's what she said.
Address in Havana Vieja: Obispo No 524 Between Bernaza Y Villegas.
4. Where to book tours
You can book private city tours, various excursions to other cuban towns and Tropicana show tickets (which we did as well, but I will tell about it separately, later!) in most big hotels.
We did it in a
Hotel Florida , located in a very heart of Old Havana.
5. Viazul tickets
If you will travel across the country, most probably you will use Viazul buses. You can buy tickets in advance
online, however you will still have to physically collect them from the station. Which, in theory, should not be a big deal, but that's if you wouldn't be in Cuba, though... :)
It is advised to arrive 30 min prior to departure, however I would recommend to be at the station 1 hour in advance, just in case...
Also, make sure you have your passport or other valid form of ID with you, even if you need just to buy a ticket! (We did not know about this!)
Plan your time wisely, in Havana, Viazul station/office is located fairly far from the city center, in area called Vedado. In order to get there, we took a "Drop in, Drop off" bus till The Colon Cemetery (Colon Necropolis), but then it has taken us a very long time to actually find it, I was completely exhausted!
6. Tips
I would highly recommend you to always have small change with you ( 5, 10, 20 etc. cuban pesos in coins) . The problem is, you will need to pay when attending the bathroom at most public places. And it is not optional I am afraid! I believe that, of course, it is all non-official and just a way how locals earn. When we did not know about this yet, I was once literally not allowed to attend the bathroom, as cuban granny didn't let me in!
Also, be prepared that you will be asked to give tips everywhere... e.g. at the restaurant or bar, where musicians play or sing (and they play and sing pretty much everywhere...) , at the end they will go to collect money from all visitors, and they will stand near your table until you will give them something, which is very annoying!
At the beginning we were just giving 1 CUC everywhere (including the bathrooms), however towards the end of the trip we became more clever and tried to always have smaller coins in hand.
7. Prices
Based on our experience, a decent meal for two (without drinks) would cost you starting from 14 - 16 CUC. By "decent" I don't mean sandwiches, but, e.g. fish fillet and prawns, both with a side dish.
Alcohol is fairly cheap: the price for famous cocktails as Mojito or Cuba Libre will vary depending on a place, from 3 - 6, 6.50 CUC maximum.
One of the most expensive things is... still mineral water!
You will notice, that in the centre of Havana, there will be no price tag on water. I believe it is all due to different price is being given for locals and tourists (from 1 - 2 CUC per bottle).
8. Personal hygiene
Those bus station bathrooms which you have to pay for (mentioned earlier) are often in a terrible condition! Once, there was even no flush and elderly cuban lady just came with a bucket of water to clean after you... Often, there is also no soap or toilet paper, that is why ALWAYS have napkins and a good sanitiser with you!
Here's a small video with pictures from our first day in Havana.
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